Liveaboard itineraries: which one to choose?
The Maldives offer an incredible variety of dives, and cruising among these atolls is always a magical experience. There are mainly two itineraries that offer different thrills. The Central Atolls embody the essence of the “classic” Maldives, with their perfect mix of thilas and kandus; the Deep South, on the other hand, offers a more intense adventure, focused on encounters with large predators.
Central Atolls: the "classic" Maldives
If you are looking to experience a liveaboard in the Maldives for the first time, the Central Atolls are certainly advisable. This is the most classic, renowned, and complete itinerary, allowing you to cruise among the most famous destinations in the archipelago.
This is the option I recommend for those who want a taste of the extraordinary variety the Maldives offers: a perfect mix of diverse dives and exciting encounters. It’s also perfect for companions, who can enjoy snorkeling or frequent excursions to the islands.
Below is a sample itinerary, broken down by atoll, with some notes on the most significant dives.
Malè Nord
The liveabord starts from Hulhumalé port, near Malé. After check-in and the initial briefing, the first dive is the “check dive,” usually at the famous site “Shark Tank”. Here, it’s possible to see various pelagic species: tiger sharks, spinner sharks, lemon sharks, guitarfish, and, if lucky, the great hammerhead (Sphyrna Mokarran). It’s a great opportunity to warm up the GoPro!
Ari
After returning from the check dive, the cruise heads towards Ari Atoll, considered by many the beating heart of Maldivian diving. Here, world-renowned dives await: the “Thilas”, submerged seamounts rising from the seabed and teeming with life, such as the famous “Maaya Thila” (where night-time encounters with white-tip reef sharks are a must) and “Fish Head”, a site where grey sharks are present in large numbers. “Maalhos Thila” is also very interesting for filming, with colorful anemones growing on the vaults of its caverns, providing shelter for numerous turtles and moray eels. Heading south, the southern part of Ari is the realm of the whale shark, and much time is dedicated to searching for this gentle giant: an encounter worth the journey itself, whether it happens during the day—while snorkeling or diving, usually at Mamingili Beru—or at night, from the boat’s stern. Ari is a paradise for videographers: each dive offers different opportunities, from schools of fish and turtles to grey sharks, mantas, and the dream of an encounter with the whale shark.
Felidhoo
From Ari Atoll, the journey then continues across the ocean channel heading east to Vaavu (or Felidhoo), one of my favorites, famous for its “Kandu” – or ocean passes – always full of life and current. Here, you’ll find adrenaline-filled sites like “Fotteyo Kandu”, renowned for its vibrant alcionari corals and the large presence of pelagic fish, considered one of the most beautiful dives in the world.
At Fotteyo, during the dawn dive, it’s quite likely to encounter a hammerhead shark, although footage is often affected by depth and low light conditions.
Heading north, you’ll experience the unforgettable night dive at “Alimathà Jetty”: finding yourself surrounded by dozens (sometimes hundreds!) of nurse sharks, reef blacktips, and hunting jacks is pure adrenaline and creates incredible footage — especially if you dive before sunset, a practice I recommend for those filming with a GoPro without lights.
In the same area, you can explore stunning locations like “Miyaru Kandu”, where encounters with numerous grey sharks, white tips, and eagle rays patrolling the pass entrance are guaranteed. You can also visit historic passes like “Devana Kandu” or “Dhiggiru Kandu“.
Malè Sud
On the way back, the last dives are performed in the passes of the Maldives South Atoll. Sites like “Guraidhoo Kandu” and “Emboodhoo Kandu” still offer small moments to encounter sharks, eagle rays, turtles, and Napoleon fish. Another unmissable dive is “Kandooma Thila”, where the alcionari are as lush as in the past.
Unfortunately, I must report that in some areas of Malé South, visibility is not always optimal, possibly due to the dredging work related to the construction of new artificial islands and the expansion of existing beaches. I trust that once these works are completed, the situation will soon return to normal.
The last afternoon is usually spent with the boat moored at Hulhumalé, with the possibility of visiting Malé, the bustling Maldivian capital. For me, the wait to disembark is always a mix of sadness and excitement: with the skipper and dive leader, I already start planning every detail of next year’s itinerary. Having a new goal already pushes me toward my next adventure.
Malè, Maldives 2019 with GoPro7
Extreme south: the wild adventure
Navigating the southern atolls, less frequented by mass tourism, means immersing yourself in an unspoiled environment where “Kandu” are true highways for sharks, eagle rays, mantas, and pelagic fish.
It is an intense experience that requires a good level of diving training: certifications like Advanced and Nitrox are recommended, along with a respectable number of logged dives, to approach it in the best way.
The reward is strong emotions and the chance to return home with a hard drive full of truly special footage.
If you’re seeking adventure with a capital “A” and dream of close encounters with the ocean’s top predators, the route of the Far South is the perfect choice.
Below is a typical itinerary, divided by atolls, with some indications of the most significant dives.
Addu
For logistical reasons related to internal flights, the cruise begins on alternate weeks from either Addu or Huvadhoo. If embarkation takes place in Addu (Gan airport), the check dive is conducted at “Manta Point“, located in the northeastern part of the atoll, with excellent chances of filming mantas elegantly gliding over the “cleaning stations.” It’s an incredible sight and a fantastic opportunity for the first footage of the cruise.
Fuvahmulah
Leaving Addu, you reach Fuvahmulah, a unique atoll because it consists of a single island, located near the equator line and considered the pelagic paradise of the Maldives.
A couple of dives are done on the “Plateau”, a flat area that rapidly slopes down to great depths, where the chances of sightings are incredible: silk sharks, silvertips, hammerheads, tiger sharks, and eagle rays, and with a bit of luck, even the whale shark or the sunfish (Mola mola).
Capturing exceptional footage from the dive on the Plateau is not easy due to the depths and often less-than-ideal lighting conditions, but the emotions this place offers are priceless.
Also in Fuvahmulah, the “Tiger Zoo” represents a unique dive, a true Holy Grail for us videomakers, where huge tiger sharks swim constantly around the GoPro.
Huvadhoo
The last atoll of this itinerary is Huvadhoo, with still very wild outer landscapes and almost always crystal-clear underwater visibility. Its kandu are famous worldwide: “Gemanafushi”, with its silk sharks; “Maarehaa”, renowned for large schools of eagle rays; “Kondey,” with lush and pristine coral gardens (on my last cruise, I spotted a pair of sunfish!); and, further north, “Nilandhoo”, “Kuredhdhoo”, “Maamendhoo”, and “Villingili Kandu”, with hundreds of grey sharks and green turtles, sometimes even up to half a dozen together.
And, to close the liveaboard with a touch of magic, there’s another paradise for videomakers: “Kooddoo Jetty”, the dive site near the entrance of the small port, where you find yourself swimming among dozens of large spinner sharks and hundreds of young, lively grey sharks.
We depart from a small airport, human-sized and immersed in greenery, with a smile on our faces, hours of footage on the hard disks, and an incredible desire to return.