Liveaboard itineraries: which one to choose?
The Egyptian Red Sea is one of the most beloved and easily accessible destinations for European divers: an aquarium within easy reach. Exploring by liveaboard allows access to remote and spectacular sites, renowned for walls rich in vibrant and flourishing corals and encounters with large pelagic life. There are mainly two classic itineraries: the trilogy of Brothers, Daedalus, and Elphinstone (B.D.E.) and the one called St. John’s.
Brothers, Daedalus, and Elphinstone: icons of the Red Sea
The B.D.E. itinerary (Brothers, Daedalus, and Elphinstone) is a classic of central-southern Red Sea, ideal for those seeking the thrill of encounters with sharks. It navigates towards three isolated reefs in open water, among impressive walls and rich pelagic ecosystems. Given the frequent presence of currents and surf, this itinerary is best suited for more experienced divers; however, the chance to see large pelagics near reefs full of colorful corals makes the experience highly rewarding. Below, you’ll find a typical itinerary example divided by locations, with some references to the most significant dives.
Hurghada
The cruise begins from the port of Hurghada. After check-in and the initial briefing, the check dive is performed at one of the numerous spots in the area. “Gota Abu Ramada” is one of my favorites: shallow depth, crystal-clear water, lush corals, and an abundance of colorful reef fish. It’s here that I recently set my air dive record: 100 minutes! It’s the perfect opportunity to warm up the GoPro and check all the settings for the upcoming dives, which will be even more exciting.
Brothers Island
After the check dive, the boat heads for about 5-6 hours towards the Brothers Islands, an archipelago offering spectacular dives among crystal-clear reflections and a rich marine biodiversity. The largest, Big Brother, located to the north, is famous for its vertiginous walls covered with colorful anemones, wrecks, and especially for its sharks: hammerheads, grey sharks, and often even the great hammerhead. The dives here typically include a descent at “South Point” and an additional dive on one of the two wrecks, “Numidia” or “Aida.”
The Small Brother, smaller and about a mile further south, features beautiful coral walls, pinnacles, and extensive biodiversity. During dives at the “South Plateau”, it’s possible to spot also the whale shark, while “North Point” is renowned for grey sharks.
Daedalus Reef
Since overnight stays at the Brothers have been prohibited for some years now, after the third dive, the boat immediately heads south. It is the longest leg of the cruise (about 9-10 hours), but fortunately, the sailing is done at night.
Upon waking, a breathtaking scene unfolds: the Daedalus reef, a majestic coral atoll with a small artificial island at its center, featuring an iconic lighthouse built in 1863.
The stay at Daedalus is generally three days, during which six dives are made at four different spots: the South Plateau, near the boat mooring points, known for the presence of oceanic whitetips and barracuda; the East Wall and West Wall, rich in splendid corals and with many opportunities for pelagic encounters; and the legendary North Point, where the luckiest divers can approach a resident school of hammerhead sharks and where oceanic manta rays are often sighted.
Elphinstone Reef
Reluctantly leaving Daedalus, the boat heads towards Elphinstone Reef, reaching it in about 5-6 hours for the last day of diving. This offshore reef, 400 meters long, has a drop-off that descends beyond 100 meters. Considered one of the top ten dive sites in the world, Elphinstone is rich in soft corals and is ideal for observing various shark species, such as the oceanic whitetip, the hammerhead shark, and often also the thresher shark. The dives usually made are one at North Point and one at South Point.
Port Ghalib
The last afternoon is spent with the boat moored in the harbor, and you can spend the evening in Port Ghalib, a location renowned for the largest artificial lagoon in Africa. You can take a stroll along the marina, admiring the boats and the evening lights, stopping at one of the many cafés or restaurants, or you can discover one of the local night bars where you can enjoy cocktails and listen to live music.
St. John's: vibrant corals and marine life
The St. John’s itinerary explores the far south of Egypt. It navigates through a wide, less frequented area characterized by an extraordinary variety of coral formations and high biodiversity. This offers a unique opportunity to dive in still pristine environments, ideal for dives of significant naturalistic interest.
The dives in St. John’s, renowned for their rich marine fauna and flora, are generally shallow and suitable even for divers with a basic experience level. Conditions are usually better than in the northern part of the Red Sea, although temperatures can be higher. An evening arrival in particularly protected and safe zones also guarantees optimal conditions for fascinating night dives.
Abu Dabab
The cruise begins from Port Ghalib, in the Marsa Alam area. After check-in onboard and the initial briefing, the first dives are carried out in the Abu Dabbab area, about an hour from the port, where “Abu Dabbab II” and “Abu Dabbab III” are my preferred spots: beautiful coral gardens, with a maximum depth of around 20 meters, good visibility, colorful pinnacles, and a constant presence of green turtles.
Fury Shoals
The second day of diving is spent in Fury Shoals, a vast coral system comprising about twenty reefs with a variety of stunning sites, including: Sha’ab Claudio, a small reef rich in corals, characterized by a maze of caves and passages always illuminated by sunlight; and Abu Galawa Soraya, a donut-shaped barrier with an incredible coral garden at its center.
Northeast of Fury Shoals lies Sha’ab Maksour, my favorite: a reef about 1.5 km long with steep walls and a shape very similar to Elphinstone. Diving here is done at “Punta Sud” and “Punta Nord,” both excellent for spotting turtles, reef sharks, and, with a bit of luck, the hammerhead shark.
At the southern end of the system is Sha’ab Sataya, famous for the large pod of resident dolphins in its natural lagoon, which offers opportunities for snorkeling and great filming, always respecting these wonderful animals.
Saint John's
To reach the next destination, the route crosses the Ras Banas peninsula, which borders the Gulf of the ancient port of Berenice.
The area called St. John’s, located at the border with Sudan, encompasses about ten reefs characterized by a distinctive seabed morphology: an underwater plain at depths between 60 and 80 meters, from which numerous reefs rise. Some of these emerge significantly at the surface, while others have their summits just a few meters below, known in Arabic as “Abili”.
Among the main diving sites are “Abil Ali,” known for frequent encounters with large pelagic fish, including hammerhead sharks and Albimarginatus; “Habili Gaafar”; “Dangerous Reef”; “Gota Kebir”; “Saint John Caves” and “Paradise Reef”. These sites offer ideal opportunities for high-quality dives, including the production of top-level video content.
Elphinstone Reef
Leaving St. John’s, the boat heads north towards Elphinstone Reef, the final destination. Two dives are planned here at what is considered one of the world’s top ten dive sites. The dives usually take place at North Point and South Point, where the steep walls and currents make it ideal for observing large pelagic predators, including grey reef sharks, hammerhead sharks, and oceanic whitetip sharks.
Port Ghalib
Also on this itinerary, normally, the final afternoon is spent with the boat moored in the harbor, and you can spend the evening in Port Ghalib, a location famous for the largest artificial lagoon in Africa. You can take a stroll along the marina, admiring the boats and the evening lights, stopping at one of the many cafés or restaurants, or you can discover one of the local night bars, where you can enjoy cocktails and listen to live music.